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Evaluating the Varroa population using a screened bottom board

About 10 percent to 15 percent of Varroa mites routinely fall off the bees and drop to the bottom board. But if you use a screened bottom board (sometimes called a “sticky” board), the mites fall through the screen and onto a removable tacky white board. When this white board is in place, mites fall through the screen and become stuck to the sheet (you apply a thin film of petroleum jelly or a cooking spray to the sheet to help the mites stick). Just insert the sheet for a day or two and then remove it to count the mites. If the number of mites is more than 50, then appropriate control measures should be taken. A screened bottom board is also an excellent way to improve ventilation in the hive.

Knowing how to control Varroa mite problems

A number of products and techniques are available that help reduce or even eliminate Varroa mites populations. Here are the ones that I suggest you consider and a few that I think you should avoid as a new beekeeper. In recent years, it is a generally accepted practice not to medicate your bees unless you know it is necessary. Medicating your bees as a protective measure can actually diminish the effectiveness of medication when you absolutely, positively need it. The mites can build a resistance when medications are used too frequently.

Medication options

There are a few effective and approved miticides (chemicals that kill mites). One is fluvalinate, which is sold under the brand name, Apistan, and is available from your beekeeping supplier. Another is coumaphos (marketed as CheckMite+). Formic Acid is also used as a treatment for tracheal mites (sold in gel packs under the brand name Miteaway II). In addition there are “soft” (safer) chemicals such as thymol (marketed as Apiguard). When any of the detection techniques mentioned earlier in this chapter indicate Varroa mites, you must immediately treat with one of these treatments by carefully following the directions on the package. Because Varroa mites can develop a resistance to these medications, it is prudent to alternate between two or more of these from one season to the next.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

Drone brood inspection method

Regrettably, the drone brood inspection method kills some of the drone brood. I prefer the sugar shake method for that reason alone. If you choose this drone brood inspection technique, follow these steps:

1. Find a frame with a large patch of capped drone brood.

They are the larger capped brood with slightly dome-shaped cappings. Shake all the bees off the frame, and move to an area away from the hive where you can work undisturbed.

2. Using an uncapping fork , slide the prongs along the cappings spearing the top third of the cappings and impaling the drone pupae as you shovel across the frame.

3. Pull the drone pupae straight out of their cells.

Any mites are clearly visible against the white pupae. Repeat the process to take a larger sampling. Two or more mites on a single pupa indicate a serious, heavy infestation. Two or three mites per 50 pupae indicate a low to moderate infestation. But remember, whenever you see any mites at all, it’s time to consider taking action!

Varroa mites first attach themselves to drone pupae, so that’s a good place to look for evidence of an infestation. Can you see the mites on these pupae?

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

If you suspect a Varroa mite problem, then, by all means, confirm your diagnosis by using either the powdered sugar shake method or the drone brood inspection method. But performing one of these detection techniques before you suspect a problem is best. Varroa detection needs to be a routine part of your inspection schedule. I suggest using the powdered sugar shake method twice a year — once in the early spring, and once in the late summer.

Powdered sugar shake method

The powdered sugar shake technique is my favorite method for detecting Varroa. It is effective and nondestructive (no bees are killed in the process). You use this process in the early spring (before honey supers go on) and again in the late summer (before the honey supers come off). Follow these steps:

1. Obtain a one pint wide-mouthed glass jar (the kind mayonnaise comes in) and modify the lid so that it has a coarse screen insert. Just cut out the center of the lid and tape or glue a wire screen over the opening.

Hardware cloth (eight wires to the inch) works well. Now you have something resembling a jumbo saltshaker.

2. Put 3 to 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar (confectioners’ sugar) into the jar. Alternatively you can use granulated sugar.

3. Scoop up about half a cup of live bees (about 200 to 300) from the brood nest and place them in the jar. Be careful that you don’t scoop up the queen! Screw on the perforated lid.

4. Cover the screened lid with one hand (to keep the sugar from spilling out) and shake the jar vigorously (like a bartender making a martini).

This action doesn’t really harm the bees, but it sure wakes them up!

5. Shake the sugar through the screened top and onto a white sheet of paper. Open the top and let the bees fly home (you may want to stand to the side as they will be rather unhappy). When the bees have departed, shake the rest of the sugar onto the paper.

Shake authoritatively. Doing so dislodges any mites that are on the bees. The mites can easily be counted, contrasted against the white paper and powdered sugar. If you count ten or more mites, you should proceed with the recommended treatment . Seeing many dozens of mites means the infestation has become significant. Take remedial action fast! Bees can be returned unharmed to the hive using this technique. Although they may be coated with sugar, their sisters nevertheless have a grand time licking them clean. Just wait 10 to 15 minutes to let them calm down before releasing them. All that jostling can make them understandably irritable.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

Somehow this little pest (Varroa destructor) has made its way from Asia to all parts of the world, with the exception of Hawaii. Varroa has been in the United States since the late 1980s (maybe longer) and has created quite a problem for beekeepers. Resembling a small tick, this mite is about the size of a pinhead and is visible to the naked eye. Like a tick, the adult female mite attaches herself to a bee and feeds on its blood (hemolymph fluid). Hemolymph fluid is the “blood” of arthropods. It is the fluid that circulates in the body cavity of an insect, and carries oxygen like mammal blood does. Mites attached to foraging worker bees enable the infestation to spread from one hive to another. The Varroa mite is strongly attracted to the scent of drone larvae, but it also invades other brood cells just before they’re capped over by the bees. Within the cells Varroa mites feed on the developing bees and lay eggs. They reproduce at a fantastic rate and cause a great deal of stress to the colony. The health of the colony can weaken to a point that bees become highly susceptible to viruses. Within a couple of seasons, the entire colony can be wiped out.

Recognizing Varroa mite symptoms

How do you know if your colony has a serious infestation of Varroa mites? Following is a list of some Varroa mite symptoms. If you suspect a Varroa infestation, confirm your diagnosis using one of the surefire detection techniques.

- Do you see brown or reddish spots on the white larvae? You may be seeing mites.

- Are any of the newly emerged bees badly deformed? You may notice some bees with stunted abdomens and deformed wings.

- Do you actually see Varroa on adult bees? They’re usually found behind the head or nestled between the bee’s abdominal segments Finding mites on adult bees indicates a heavy infestation. The mites head for bee larvae first (before the larvae are capped and develop into pupae). They then feed on capped pupae. It doesn’t take much to figure out that by the time the mites are prevalent on adult bees, the mite population is quite high.

- Did your colony suddenly die in late autumn? Oops! You’re way too late to solve the problem this year. You’ll have to start fresh with a new colony next spring.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

Sacbrood

 Sacbrood is a viral disease of brood similar to a common cold. It isn’t considered a serious threat to the colony. Infected larvae turn yellow and eventually dark brown. They’re easily removed from their cells, because they appear to be in a water-filled sack. Now you know where the name comes from. No recommended medical treatment exists for sacbrood. But you can shorten the duration of this condition by removing the sacs with a pair of tweezers. Other than that intervention, let the bees slug it out for themselves. Do your best to keep your bees free of stressful problems (mites, poor ventilation, crowded conditions) and they’ll have an easier time staying healthy and avoiding disease. Be sure to feed them sugar syrup and pollen substitute in the spring and sugar syrup in the autumn.

Stonebrood

 Stonebrood is a fungal disease that affects larvae and pupae. It is rare and doesn’t often show up. Stonebrood causes the mummification of brood. Mummies are hard and solid (not sponge-like and chalky as with chalkbrood). Some brood may become covered with a powdery green fungus.

Honey bee viruses

 Adult honey bees may occasionally fall prey to various different kinds of viruses. Sacbrood is one such viral disease. But there are quite a few others that impact honey bees. Viruses aren’t easily detected and are often overlooked by beekeepers. Some researchers are exploring a link between viruses and Colony Collapse Disorder . Perhaps the most easily recognized virus is chronic bee paralysis, which causes workers to become greasy looking, hairless, and uniformly black in color. Sick bees are seen crawling on the grass in front of the hive, simply unable to fly. Note: Colonies infested with mites  are far more susceptible to viral diseases, because open wounds created by mites are an invitation to infection. The subject of bee viruses is a fast moving target, with new developments and discoveries taking place every year. No medical treatment exists for honey bee viruses, but if you know your bees have a virus, you can help. One by one, remove each frame from the hive and carry it 10 to 20 feet away. Now shake all the bees off the frame and return it (empty) to the hive. Do this for all frames. The sick bees will not be able to return to the hive. The healthy ones will have no trouble making it home.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

Chalkbrood is a common fungal disease that affects bee larvae. Chalkbrood pops up most frequently during damp conditions in early spring. It is rather common and usually not that serious. Infected larvae turn a chalky white color, become hard, and may occasionally turn black. You may not even know that your bees have it until you spot the chalky carcasses on the hive’s “front porch.” Worker bees on “undertaker duty” attempt to remove the chalkbrood as quickly as possible, often dropping their heavy loads at the entrance or on the ground in front of the hive. Misdiagnosing this disease is common, because it’s easily confused with chilled brood. You see carcasses at the hive entrance with both anomalies, but with chalkbrood, the bodies are hard and chalky (not soft and translucent as is true with chilled brood). No medical treatment is necessary for chalkbrood. Your colony should recover okay on its own. But you can help them out by removing mummified carcasses from the hive’s entrance and from the ground around the hive. Also, usually one frame will have most of the chalkbrood cells. Remove this frame from the hive and replace it with a new frame and foundation. This action minimizes the bees’ job of cleaning up. Also consider replacing your queen by ordering a new one from your bee supplier (or by providing one of your own if you are raising queens ). Your help quickly arrests the spread of the fungus.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

Nosema, a common protozoan disease that affects the intestinal tracks of adult bees, is kind of like dysentery in humans. It can weaken a hive and reduce honey production by between 40 and 50 percent. It can even wipe out a colony of bees. It’s most common in spring after bees have been confined to the hive during the winter. The problem is, that by the time the symptoms are visible, it has gone too far and is difficult or impossible to treat. Some

symptoms of Nosema are

- In the spring, infected colonies build up slowly or perhaps not at all.

- Bees appear weak and may shiver and crawl aimlessly around the front of the hive.

- The hive has a characteristic spotting, which refers to streaks of mustard-brown feces that appear in and on the hive.

You can discourage Nosema by selecting hive sites that have good airflow and a nearby source of fresh, clean water. Avoid damp, cold conditions that can encourage Nosema. Provide your hives with full or dappled sunlight. Creating an upper entrance for the bees during winter improves ventilation and discourages Nosema. Purchase your bees and queens from reputable suppliers who treat their bees with antibiotics to minimize infection. Medicate for Nosema prophylactically (preventively) by feeding Fumigilin (an antibiotic) in sugar syrup in the spring and fall. You should add Fumigilin-B to the first two gallons of sugar syrup that you feed your bees in the spring. Also medicate the first two gallons you feed them in the autumn . Any additional gallons of syrup you feed to the bees are not medicated.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

European foulbrood (EFB) is a bacterial disease of larvae. Unlike AFB, larvae infected with EFB die before they’re capped. Symptoms of EFB include the following:

- Very spotty brood pattern (many empty cells scattered among the capped brood). This is sometimes referred to as a “shotgun” pattern.

- Infected larvae are twisted in the bottoms of their cells like an inverted corkscrew. The larvae are either a light tan or brown color, and have a smooth “melted” appearance. Remember that normal, healthy larvae are a glistening, bright white color.

- With EFB, nearly all of the larvae die in their cells before they are capped. This makes it easy for you to see the discolored larv

- Capped cells may be sunken in and perforated, but the “toothpick test” won’t result in the telltale ropy trail as described above for AFB.

- A sour odor may be present (but not as foul as AFB). Here’s the best way to view frames for diseased larvae. Hold the frame by the ends of the top bar. Stand with your back to the sun and the light shining over your shoulder and down into the cells. The frame should be sharply angled so you are looking at the true bottom of the cell. Most new beekeepers interpret the “bottom” as the midrib of the comb. It isn’t. The true bottom of the cell is the lower wall of the cell (the wall that’s closest to the hive’s bottom board when the frame is hanging in the hive). Because EFB bacteria don’t form persistent spores, this disease isn’t as dangerous as AFB. Colonies with EFB sometimes recover by themselves after a good nectar flow begins. Although serious, EFB is not as devastating as AFB and can be successfully prevented or treated with antibiotics. Prophylactically (preventively) treating colonies in the spring and autumn with Terramycin or Tylan can help prevent EFB . If you’ve detected EFB, requeen your colony (replace the old queen with a new one; to break the brood cycle and allow the colony time to remove infected larvae. Help the bees out, and remove as many of the infected larvae as you can using a pair of tweezers. Treat the colony with Tylan or Terramycin following the instructions on the package. It’s a good hygienic practice to replace all of the frames and comb in your hives every few years. There are a couple of compelling reasons for doing this: Replacing old frames minimizes the spread of disease; old wax can contain residual medication from past treatments — building resistance and making medication treatments ineffective when needed.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.

I’ll start with the worst of the lot. American foulbrood (AFB) is a nasty bacterial disease that attacks larvae and pupae. This serious threat is highly contagious to bees (not people) and, left unchecked, is certain to kill your entire colony. It’s the most terrible of the bee diseases. Some symptoms are

- Infected larvae change color from a healthy pearly white to tan or dark brown and die after they’re capped.

- Cappings of dead brood sink inward (becoming concave) and often  appear perforated with tiny holes.

- The capped brood pattern no longer is compact, but becomes spotty and random. This is sometimes referred to as a “shotgun” pattern).

- The surface of the cappings may appear wet or greasy. If you see these conditions, confirm that it’s AFB by thrusting a toothpick or matchstick into the dead brood, mixing it around, and then slowly withdrawing the toothpick. Observe the material that is being drawn out of the cell as you withdraw the toothpick. Brood killed by AFB will be stringy and will rope out about ? inch (like pulling taffy) and then snap back like a rubber band. That test can confirm the presence of AFB. Also take a close look at the dead pupae. Some may have tongues protruded at a right angle to the cell wall. There may also be a telltale odor associated with this disease. Most describe it as an unpleasant “foul” smell . If you suspect a foul smell, and that smell lingers in your nose after leaving the hive, your bees might have AFB. If you suspect that your bees actually have AFB, immediately ask your state bee inspector to check your diagnosis. Sleeping spores of AFB can remain active (even on old unused equipment) for up to 70 years. You can help prevent the onset on AFB by treating your colonies in the spring and autumn with antibiotics approved for use with honey bees. There are two products currently on the market: Tylan (tylosin tartrate) and Terramycin (oxy-tetracycline). These medications are available from bee equipment suppliers. To administer, carefully follow the instructions on the product package. Never purchase old, used equipment. No matter how tempting the offer may be — no matter how well you know the seller. If the bees that once lived in that hive ever had AFB, the disease-causing spores remain in the equipment for decades. No amount of scrubbing, washing, sanding or cleaning can remedy the situation. Please start your new adventure in beekeeping by purchasing new and hygienic equipment.

From : “Beekeeping For Dummies” By Howland Blackiston.